Before my A-levels, I had never even seen a sewing machine in real life, let alone use one. I had always loved making things with my hands – I liked the actual, physical process of taking an idea and turning it into something I could hold, and sewing was another method of doing so.
My journey to AUB actually started in my Foundation year, extremely unsure where it would take me. I had tried to specialise in fashion but found it hard to remain interested. I found myself more drawn to recreating garments and making things that people would’ve worn. Towards the end of Foundation, I made a 1940s-inspired dress for Lucy from The Chronicles of Narnia, working with an actual historical pattern. It was through that project that I discovered the BA (Hons) Costume course at AUB and that it revolved highly around making. I realised I had found what I was looking for.
When I started the costume course, I honestly knew very little about historical dress, nor had I ever given it much thought prior. My first project was an 1890s corset and bustle, and I was so intrigued by how much structure can be hidden inside a garment. I learnt about boning, construction and eyelets – although, I think I broke almost every eyelet on my sample whilst learning how to attach them.
These new words and skills honestly all sounded scary to me; I felt I was the only person that didn’t know what things meant. It was during the fitting that I had simply one or two quick alterations to make and remember thinking, maybe I can actually be good at this. Since then, I’ve become slightly obsessed with historical costume. I love not only the making but also the detective work involved. I enjoy looking at surviving garments, patterns and photographs and figuring out how someone constructed something (some without a machine!) centuries ago. I think there’s something so special about being able to recreate a garment that might otherwise never be touched again, only viewed behind a glass or a photograph. The making process allows me to feel connected to whoever made the garment all those years ago and the person who wore it.
My favourite project so far has been my costume for Jane in Pride and Prejudice. It was only my second project, which makes me even more surprised by how much I really like this piece. My favourite part is the sleeves. It really hurt my brain to figure out how to construct them from the pattern – it took forever – but seeing the final, finished costume made it worth it.
There is some room for design elements in this course. For my late 19th century costume, I designed a belt inspired by The Picture of Dorian Gray, using wilting roses to represent the themes of fading beauty and the passing of time. During my first year, I designed a stomacher which was inspired by the story of Noah, using the ocean, a dove and an olive branch to represent new beginnings and faith. Design allows you to place your signature into the garment differently but making is where my heart lies.
Making is incredibly rewarding, but it’s not easy. There are long hours of sewing, mistakes that must be unpicked and problems that sometimes take literal hours to solve. Unfortunately for me, I become completely obsessed with getting something right. If something isn’t working, I find it very difficult to let go and stop thinking about it. I've had fittings where I’ve wanted to completely give up and start over, and I’ve spent hours trying to understand techniques that didn’t make sense to me at all. My first fitting for my Pride and Prejudice costume went horribly. It just didn’t sit right at all; I remember I had a long list of changes that needed to be done and I genuinely thought it would be easier to start over. I got too in my head, but after a break, I found the motivation to work through the problems – it gave me one of my favourite pieces.
I still tend to panic when making about the fit of a garment, but you can’t pick your model up and take her home with you as a 24/7 mannequin. You just have to have more confidence in your skills and learn from your mistakes. It takes a lot of patience and occasionally accepting that something needs to be unpicked for the fourth time.
AUB has given me lots of opportunities to develop my skills. The dye room has been brilliant for experimenting with printing and dyeing. I also love walking through TheGallery and seeing what everyone else is making, especially the MA Historical Costume work. In BA (Hons) Costume, you also get to collaborate with other courses. I collaborated with a photography student which gave me the chance to experience another side of AUB and come out with some amazing shots of my work.
Going into third year, I’m super excited about having more independence – making my own schedule, choosing my own projects and having the time to truly focus on something I’m fully interested in, whilst also being able to get support where necessary. I’m extremely drawn to garment recreation, making any replicas of garments that could be too fragile to handle or be displayed, and it’s something I could be interested in pursuing in some kind of way after AUB. The destination isn’t exactly clear just yet, but I know I want to keep making.
Two years ago, I looked at the work produced by costume students and thought, “How am I ever going to make that?”. Now, I’ve made things I couldn’t believe. I think that’s what’s great about the course – being pushed to make things I didn’t think I could, making mistakes along the way and somehow ending up with something I’m proud of.
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