BA (Hons) Costume students from Arts University Bournemouth (AUB) have been busy creating ‘Bridgerton-style’ Regency dresses for Hurn Court Opera’s latest production, La Cenerentola.
Rossini's comic two-act opera tells the familiar story of the gentle and kind-hearted girl, mistreated by her wicked stepfather and stepsisters. In Rossini’s version, Angelina’s fairy godmother is replaced by magical benefactor, Alidoro, a wise philosopher initially disguised as a beggar. While scheming shenanigans swirl around her, Angelina maintains a quiet strength and belief in virtue that ultimately win the day, and, of course, her Prince Charming.
Wayne Martin, Senior Lecturer for BA (Hons) Costume at AUB, says, “This was a fantastic opportunity for our Costume students. To get real-life experience, to make these stunning Regency dresses for the prestigious Hurn Court Opera company, and to know their dresses will be seen on the stage by so many, it’s just wonderful for them.”
The title role of La Cenerentola, otherwise known as Angelina, will be performed by rising star mezzo-soprano Leila Zanette, while tenor James Beddoe will portray the Prince, Don Ramiro.
“I loved working on this dress, I love period costume dramas like Bridgerton, but I do get frustrated when they’re not historically accurate!" says Olivia Wood who made Angelina’s ballgown.
“This ballgown is made up of many layers of fabric, it's got a slip dress, a main dress, an overlay, and slip dresses are very historically accurate. Women wore colourful ones underneath sheer overlays, which changed the overall colour of the dress. I adjusted the pattern on the big puff sleeves so there's these little triangle van dykes work and sequins for that extra sparkle on stage.”
Lilly Stratford made the wedding dress for Angelina, explaining, “I began the process by researching historical patterns from Janet Arnold's book, which we used as a point of reference, and then we started on the bodices, we cut them on the stand. Then we could figure out what the design line should look like and then cutting out from there to make a proper pattern.
“This wedding dress has multiple layers of fabric, because it needs to be strong and structured for use on the stage. It’s got supportive layers, decorative layers, and then we have the netting, which looks really beautiful and glittery in the light.”
Meanwhile, Jamie-Lee Donoghue made the dress for Clorinda, one of Angelina’s stepsisters. She explains, “I started with patterning, I used Photoshop to digitally scale up the sleeve and the skirt and the bodice was draped on a mannequin. The most daunting aspect of this design was the skirt. I had to first make the petticoat, and I also have underwear that goes along with this as well.
“I took a lot of pains to ensure that the points would line up. To do that, I made this as one piece. I made it exactly like the front and then cut it down the middle, then I had to overlock and re-sew it to make sure that the points would definitely line up at all sides.
“The sleeves are based on some I saw at the Worthing archive, I looked at bodices from the 1810s to get some ideas of how they would be made and there was so much piping, they really loved piping, so I’ve piped around the hem and there’s pipe on the panes.”
Jessica Little made the dress for Angelina’s other stepsister, Tisbe, saying, “We went for bright pink with a super big orange bow. It’s all been hand-sewn down and covered with beads, gems, and handmade flowers, about 200 flowers actually! I did have some help though; my nan’s a seamstress – she’s who inspired me to take the course, actually – and she’s made a few of the flowers on the dress, so she needs some of the credit!”
“The fabric buy-in for these gowns was an experience in itself," says dressmaking project manager Lucy Llewellyn. "We went up to Goldhawk Road, the go-to destination for fabric shopping in London. There's haberdashery shops, fabric shops, everything the team needed, all the materials, fastenings, all the trims. I’ve been there before but it was really different shopping for regency opera dresses, I haven't looked at fabrics that are this glam before!
“A lot of research has gone into this project because it's Regency and then with a modern twist. It's been really interesting to learn all the different techniques that they used to use. I’m a big Bridgerton fan, so that was great for inspiration, and luckily, there are lots of other Regency films. It's a good excuse to watch Pride and Prejudice again – either version!”
This project was the first of its kind for BA (Hons) Costume students at AUB, and the course's first collaboration with Hurn Court Opera. Founder Lynton Atkinson says the company were "absolutely blown away by [the students'] talent."
"The level of craftsmanship and attention to detail is extraordinary," he says. "The costumes will not only help our cast fully embody their characters and deliver their best performances, but they’ll also look fantastic on stage!
La Cenerentola, with professional orchestra, will be performed in the original Italian with English surtitles, and will guide you through the masquerades, malice and buffoonery that punctuate Angelina’s - or Cinderella’s - change in fortune. It will show from 14–18 April at the Theatre Royal Winchester, the Coade Theatre at Bryanston School in Blandford Forum, and The Regent in Christchurch.
